Noodle Quilt
Designed by Deb@asimplelifequilts
Fabric Requirements:
NOTE: The fabric requirements listed below are “best case scenario” requirements in some cases. If your fabric is not cut or folded straight, you may need more fabric than is listed. I have put the actual number of inches of selvage to selvage fabric required for each cut in parentheses following the listing in case you are working from stash fabrics.
Baby quilt:
1/2 yard of a print fabric (print #1) (for pieced blocks) (15”)
1/2 yard of a solid fabric (15”)
3/4 yard of a print fabric (print #2) (for large blocks) (25.5”)
Child’s quilt:
3/4 yard of a print fabric (print #1) for pieced blocks) (24”)
3/4 yard of a solid fabric (24”)
1 yard of a print fabric (print #2) (for large blocks)* (31.5”)
*if the fabric doesn’t have 42” of usable fabric (WOF minus
selvages) you will need 1 1/4 yards. (42”)
Adult’s quilt:
Same fabric requirements as the child’s quilt, plus border fabric as listed below:
For a single border:
1 yard of a print fabric (print #3) (33”)
OR
For a double border:
1/4 yard of a solid fabric (solid #2) (9”)
3/4 yard of a print fabric (print #1, #2, or #3) (23”)
NOTE: After you cut your WOF strips, remove the selvage edges.
Cutting directions for baby quilt:
Print #1 - cut six 2.5” by WOF strips
Solid - cut six 2.5” by WOF strips
After you have made and measured your pinwheel blocks:
Print #2 - cut twelve 8.5” squares (or whatever size your pinwheel
blocks came out)
Cutting directions for blocks for child’s or adult’s quilt:
Print #1 - cut eight 3.0” by WOF strips
Solid - cut eight 3.0” x WOF strips
After you have made and measured your pinwheel blocks:
Print #2 - cut twelve 10.5” squares (or whatever size your pinwheel
blocks came out)
Cutting directions for borders for adult’s quilt:
Single border:
Print #3 - cut six 5.5” x WOF strips
Double border:
Solid - cut six 1.5” x WOF strips
Print #1, #2, or #3 - cut six 4.5 x WOF strips
Sewing Directions:
IMPORTANT NOTE: All seams need to be sewn with an accurate 1/4” seam. If you use a larger seam, the blocks will not come out the needed size and your quilt will be smaller.
Take one print strip and one solid strip and sew, using a 1/4” seam, down the length of the two strips. You will now have one piece that is print on one side and solid on the other. Repeat with all the print and solid strips. Press the seams towards the print piece.
Now you will need to measure your sewn strips. Ideally, for the baby quilt, they should be 4.5” wide; for the child or adult quilt, they should be 5.5” wide. You will now cross-cut the strips to create square blocks, using the measurement of your strip.
Baby quilt blocks should ideally be 4.5” square, adult quilt blocks should be 5.5” square. The block will be comprised of one print rectangle and one solid rectangle. You will need 52 of these blocks to make the larger pinwheel blocks in the quilt.
Divide these blocks into 4 stacks of thirteen, and lay the four stacks out in the pinwheel pattern. You can now chain piece the blocks together by taking two blocks from the top two stacks, then two blocks from the bottom two stacks, until all the small blocks are gone.
Press seams towards the long print piece in each pair. Cut the connecting thread between each pair of block sets - this will give you thirteen sets of block sets that are still connected where the last seam will go. Sew the final seam.
When you go to press that seam, you can open the seam allowances at the center of the seam, where the four corners meet, so that you can press half the seam one direction and half in the other direction. This will allow for the seam allowance to be undetectable under a lighter solid. (It also gives a cool little pinwheel effect on the back of your block!)
When all thirteen of your pinwheel blocks are finished, measure several of them to see what size they turned out. For the baby quilt, they should measure 8.5”; for the child or adult quilt, they should measure 10.5”. Whatever they measure, you should cut your large print squares to that measurement. You will need twelve large print squares.
Lay the squares out in a checkerboard pattern, five rows by five rows, with pinwheel blocks in each corner. Join the blocks in each row, then join the rows together. If you are making a baby or child’s quilt, you can now quilt as desired and bind!
If you are making an adult quilt, you should now fold your top in half, right side to left side, and measure ALONG THE FOLD to find out the measurement for your side borders. (Measuring along the fold will help keep your quilt square, and will avoid “waving” on the border.) Sew three WOF strips together (remember to cut off the selvages first!) and from that long strip, cut two pieces to the measurement you just made. Attach to the right and left sides of the quilt.
Now fold your quilt in half, top to bottom, and measure ALONG THE FOLD to find out the measurement for your top and bottom borders. Sew three WOF strips together and from that long strip, cut two pieces to that measurement. Attach to the top and bottom of the quilt.
If you are making two borders, repeat the above process.
Congratulations! You have finished your quilt top!
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I hope you enjoy this tutorial! If you would like a printable copy of it, please leave a comment letting me know and I'll send you the pdf version! (Be sure you leave an email address, too, if you are a no-reply blogger - I'd hate to miss sending you a copy! I respond to all comments, so if you don't hear back from me, you're probably a no-reply blogger.)
Won't you join me in making some quilts for the 100 Quilts For Kids charity quilt challenge? It feels good to spend time using your talents to make someone else happy!!
Hugs!
Sarah
